How I Learned to Take Great Pet Photos with My Phone（And How You Can Too）
Ever wondered why some people’s dog or cat photos just look better, even when they’re shot with the same kind of phone you have? I’ve been down that rabbit hole myself, scrolling through my gallery, feeling like my pets just don’t “pop” on camera the way they do in real life. Over time—and with a lot of trial and error—I’ve picked up some tricks. Here’s what I wish someone had told me sooner.
(Curious how good and bad photos really compare? You can see real examples in our Mini Photo Guide.)
The Power of a Good Pet Photo
A decent photo does more than just fill your phone’s storage. Sometimes it’s the thing you print, send to friends, or even turn into art. I’ve found that if you get the light and timing right, your pet’s personality jumps out of the picture, whether you’re snapping a sleepy cat on the couch or a dog mid-zoomie in the yard.
A long-haired tabby cat lying in green grass under natural light. Photo by Amadeus Moga on Unsplash.
The Rookie Mistakes I Used to Make
1. Sun = Good Light? Not Always
For the longest time, I thought the brighter, the better. Then I’d wonder why my black cat looked like a fuzzy shadow with glowing eyes, or my golden retriever was basically a yellow blur with weird dark patches. Here’s the thing: harsh sunlight—like that midday glare—does your photos no favors. The details get lost, colors get strange, and pets often squint.
If you can, snap your photos early in the morning or late in the day, when the sun is lower. Cloudy weather is surprisingly good too. If you’re inside, head for a window, but keep your pet facing the light, not with their back to it. I learned this the hard way: backlighting (the light behind your pet) can make for a cool “glow” at sunrise or sunset, but more often, it just turns your dog’s face into a silhouette. Unless you want that artsy look and know how to tweak your camera settings, try to keep the light coming from in front or from the side.
2. Blurry Backgrounds: When They Work and When They Don’t
We all like that fancy blurry background you see in pro pet portraits. Phone cameras even have a “portrait mode” to help out. But I’ve messed this up plenty of times: sometimes the blur creeps into the wrong spot—like my cat’s ears vanish into fuzz, or the nose is crisp but the eyes are lost.
So, how do you get it right? Step back a little, focus on your pet’s eyes, and check your photo before moving on. If your phone lets you adjust how blurry the background is, don’t push it to the max. You want your pet’s whole face sharp, just like the old master painters did. If you’re aiming for an oil painting vibe, remember that painters blur the background, not the animal itself.
3. The “Big Nose” Effect: Why Getting Too Close Can Backfire
Sometimes you want to fill the frame with your dog’s face. I get it! But nowadays phone cameras have wide-angle lenses that can stretch things out—hello, cartoon dog nose. After enough failed attempts, I figured out that standing back a bit (a couple of feet works for most phones) keeps your pet’s face looking normal.
This kind of distortion can be adorable… but let’s be honest, it’s definitely not your dog’s real face shape.
If you want that goofy “giant nose” shot, go for it—sometimes I do! But if you’re hoping for a photo that actually looks like your pet, take a few steps back and zoom or crop later if you need to.
What Actually Made My Pet Photos Better
Getting Down on the Floor (Literally)
Most of my old pet pictures were taken from above. It’s just how most of us hold our phones. But the first time I knelt down and got on my dog’s level, the photos felt totally different—suddenly, he looked so much more “himself.” Try it next time: sit or lie down and see what your pet does. They might get curious, or just relax because you’re not looming over them.
Waiting for the Right Look
It’s tempting to wave a treat or call your pet’s name and snap right away. But sometimes, just waiting a second or two lets you catch a moment—tilted head, perky ears, curious eyes—that’s way better than a forced pose.
If your phone has a burst mode, use it! Some of my favorite pictures happened when I was ready for something else entirely.
Making Backgrounds Work for You
I used to shoot anywhere: messy kitchen, crowded backyard, whatever. But when you want your pet to stand out, a plain wall or clean rug works wonders. Even outside, finding a spot with just grass or sky behind your pet helps.
If your room’s a bit cluttered, or you’re in the park, use portrait mode or a wider aperture to blur out the mess—but remember, keep your pet’s face clear.
Want to see what different backgrounds actually look like? You can browse finished artwork in our Portrait Style Gallery.
Keeping Their Quirks
Does your cat always sleep with a toy? Does your dog wear a favorite collar? Sometimes those little things end up meaning the most in a photo. Take a few pictures both with and without accessories—you might be surprised which one you end up framing.
Sharper is Always Better
Nothing’s more frustrating than getting a cute pose, only to find it blurry later. Hold your phone with both hands, or rest your elbows on your knees for support. For pets that can’t sit still, try after a walk or play session when they’re a bit tired.
Oh, and clean your lens before you start—pocket fuzz and fingerprints are the enemy.
Don’t Worry About Gear—But You Can Always Experiment
My best pet shots usually come from my phone, not my “real” camera. Still, if you’re the type who likes to play with settings and want to go beyond the basics (things like shooting at sunset, or playing with backlighting), it’s worth checking out these two guides:
They cover more advanced stuff, but don’t let that scare you. Most of the time, simple works best.
Quick Checklist (Because I Still Forget Sometimes)
- Soft light—window, cloudy sky, early or late in the day.
- Pet faces toward the light, not away.
- You’re at their eye level.
- Clean, simple background (plain rug, wall, or sky).
- Focus is on their eyes.
- No weird wide-angle distortion (unless you want it!).
- Caught their “look” or something that feels like them.
What If My Pet Won’t Cooperate?
I get this question all the time—and honestly, half my outtakes are blurry tails or empty carpet. If your dog or cat won’t hold still, don’t sweat it. Try after a play session, or when they’re dozing in the sun. Take more photos than you think you’ll need—sometimes the in-between moments are the best.
If you’re taking pictures of more than one pet, do them separately if it’s chaos. You can always group them later, at least for prints or art.
And if your favorite photo is a little old or not perfect? No big deal. Sometimes the best expressions happen by accident. Still, it’s worth grabbing a few new shots now and then—you might surprise yourself with what you get.
You don’t need a studio or a pile of camera gear to get photos you’ll actually want to keep. The difference is mostly in paying attention—where the light is, where you’re standing, and what your pet is up to. Try a few of these tricks, and see if your next batch of photos doesn’t feel a little more “them.”
Want to see how a great photo becomes a one-of-a-kind portrait? Here’s how the process works.
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